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From Otaki we drove north to Taupo - another scenic drive along the edge of the National Park. We could see 'Mount Doom' from a distance, but didn't stop too long for photos as we had pulled over in an army training area and feared getting shot! Taupo is a famous fishing town sitting on the edge of New Zealand's largest lake and is the 'adventure capital' of the North Island. Our first night in Taupo I was sure that I had felt some mini earthquakes/tremors but no one else seemed to notice- it could've been some zealous turning over from my roomy on the top bunk, but I maintain there was some plate activity! We woke up to yet more sunshine and took the advice of the hostel to do a walk along the river to the hot springs. As it is a volcanic region hot springs flow down the hill into the river, providing the perfect bathing opportunity. It was very strange to go to the point where the hot water met the freezing water in the river. We must have spent a good 30 mins just chilling out, lazing in the steamy water - it's a hard life all this travelling! We did, however, follow our lazing by completing the 2 hour walk along the river to the Huka Falls. Here's a fascinating fact for you - each minute enough water flows down the Haka falls to fill an olympic swimming pool five times - it's the most visited natural attraction in the north island (self acclaimed!). We watched another beautiful pink sunset by the lake before rounding off our wholesome day with a game of scrabble.
From Taupo we drove north to Rotorua. This is one of the few places I remember from my visit with the family 18 years ago. Let's just say the smell hasn't changed - you are fortunate I cannot replicate it over the web! Rotorua is famous for Maori culture and stinky sulphur pools. The first night we went to a show by the Mitai tribe which included a dinner cooked the traditional way (underground steamed) and a presentation of Maori songs, weapons and traditions. Of course it finished off with the famous Haka. The following day Marie and I drove to watch the Lady Knox geyser in all her glory. I am no geography expert, so will do my best to explain what my understanding of "geothermal activity" (Marie's favourite phrase to cover anything geography related in New Zealand) is. As we've mentioned already New Zealand sits at the junction of 2 plates of the earth's crust, in the north island the Pacific is subducting under the Australasian. This movement and raising of the crust releases heat as the lava from the centre moves more towards the surface. As a result the heat and energy causes the expiration of gases, heat, strange reactions and chemicals. A geyser is like a blow hole from the ground. The Rotorua area had a total if 54 in the past, however in recent years the introduction of humans harbouring natural gases has reduced it to 12. The geyser will go off independently every 12-24 hours, which is a bit unpredictable for a tourist attraction, so the guide places a substance (like soap powder) in at 10.15 each morning. The next 30 mins is nature's power at its best - fountains of bubbles and froth pour up like a volcano. The guide explained this was first discovered by criminals (the Rotorua area was a prison where criminals had to cut down trees for timber). They were washing in the hot springs and one of them dropped his bar of soap in the water and was amazed by the reaction. After this we did the walk around the rest of the Waiotapu thermal wonderland's selection of craters, sulphur pools and mud pools. The colours and smells are entirely natural but it was seriously like walking around on another planet!
We met some Belgian friends in the hostel here, much to Marie's delight (they came from near where she spent her year abroad, and one of them went to school with a friend of hers!), and after a failed attempt to go to a Belgian bar for beer we had a pancake party instead!
From Rotorua we headed north again for the Coramandel region. We stopped off at the giant kiwi (which is smaller than I remembered) and Mount Mounganui. Once again we opted for the 'difficult' walk to the top. Puffed out and jelly legged we admired the 360 degree view before strolling down. This was the first part of new Zealand in which we'd seen Golden beaches - a totally different landscape to the south island.
We arrived at our hostel after sunset and although we could hear the sea, had no idea what view we had in store the next morning! A morning stroll in the sun along the beach on the doorstop to our hostel was a great start to the day. We went to Cathedral cove for the afternoon and completed another walk (yes, another walk to keep our fitness levels up). We stopped off at gemstone cave (prime snorkelling spot) followed by Stingray bay. By this time it was the heat of the autumn day, and no stingrays in sight. The water looked so inviting so with the beach to ourselves I braved the cold water for a refreshing (but brief) dip. The walk to cathedral cove took us along the top of the hill, providing stunning views of the beaches and coastline. Cathedral cove itself is similar to the 12 apostles in Melbourne where an arch has formed. It frames the views beautifully. We continued onto the famous 'hot water beach' which bizarrely had the sign 'no dogs on the beach on the queens birthday'. We wanted to make it for sunset, but had to time our arrival for when the tide was going out. Armed with our shovel we found the patch of beach (along with a few other locals and tourists) where the hot spring runs down to the sea. Digging barely a few inches under the hot sand uncovers the water. We created our own little bath and sat in it for over an hour watching the sun set. Apparently parts of the spring the water can reach 64 degrees Celsius! We were both in agreement that this is one of the most memorable and unique nights of our trip. Surely this country could not astound us any more with natural beauty I hear you cry...
But no, one more special natural show came on the drive from Coramandel to Auckland where I suddenly noticed a pod of dolphins! An emergency stop from Nicola, swift camera location and hasty crossing of the road allowed us to view a 5 minute dolphin 'play session' as they leapt out the water, circling each other and moving on down the coastline.
We stayed at the central YHA in Auckland where we had a short walk to the gallery, waterfront and shops. We decided to do our own things in Auckland. I went on a boat and local tour of Devonport. This lovely colonial town was originally called flagstaff as was the point where flags of the incoming boats were put up to inform the town of the newest arrival. It is also the naval base and sailing mad! Mount Victoria sits just behind the town and is a great spot for 360 degree views of the city. Auckland is surrounded by lots of volcanic islands, however, the last one to erupt was over 30,000 years ago. The largest threat to the city is a Tsunami and it was interesting to hear from my guide the tsunami training and drills that residents have to go through. Auckland has the nickname the 'city of sails' and even on a cold, drizzly day the boats are all out! In Devonport all schoolchildren have a 10 week compulsory dingy sailing course aged 9, and the town boasts to be home for some of the world renowned sailors. Marie enjoyed exploring the art gallery and waterfront and we reconvened in the evening for a sunset drink at the sky tower. This is the tallest building in the southern hemisphere, completed in 1997 as a tourist attraction it is taller than the Sydney tower by 24m. I just love being up high and watching the city lit up and the trails of car lights out the city. A mesmerising experience whatever the city!
Our flight left in the evening on the 1st June, so we had the day to fill. Marie and Nicola went to the zoo (Marie's request, to see the animals from the TV show "The Zoo" which she'd watched religiously everyday at 6pm whilst in Australia!). Cue continuous chorus of 'we're going to the zoo, zoo, zoo, how about you, you, you?' to which I would reply, 'no thanks - im going to the Museum of Transport and Technology. Boy we know how to live. The Zoo was a resounding success, especially as they finally got to see a real kiwi (the brown bird type, not the green fruit type). MOTAT went down well too, where I found out all about Sir Edmund Hillary and his south pole expedition, steam engines, wartime New Zealand and 1950's the decade of change. I also enjoyed reading about public health initiatives that have led to New Zealand boasting one of the healthiest populations and lowest infant mortality rates. Another favourite exhibition was on drinking tea - apparently New Zealand were bigger tea drinkers than Great Britain by the late 19th century. And on that note I shall end with a quote... "There is no trouble so great or grave that cannot be deminished by a nice cup of tea" (Bernard Paul Heroux - 19th century philopsopher) - well said.
So in summary, New Zealand was a stunning country. In a month I feel we just scratched the surface of this culturally and geographically diverse nation. Warm and friendly locals are always keen to stop and ask you how you are, and where you are from....and proceed to tell you about their great uncle who was from a village in Devon. It's wonderful and I'd definitely like to return again, perhaps in slightly warmer months!
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